The Bad News
By then, an annual Himalayan trek had become a tradition for us. But we never imagined we’d end up on the Kuari Pass trek this year. Our original goal was the Kamet Base Camp. Sadly, the weather had other plans.
We reached Joshimath, full of hope, determined to secure the permit for Kamet. But despite spending two valuable days chasing permissions, we were denied. It was a big blow. Eventually, we gave up and began looking for an alternative plan. And now I can confirm one thing: unplanned travel often turns out to be the most thrilling adventure of all—a true gift from the universe!
The Re-Plan
We had 11 days left. After a bit of research and a flurry of phone calls, we finally formed a new plan: two treks combined into one journey. The Kuari Pass trek and the Upper Baghini Glacier trek.
The new route promised many exciting sights: Pangarchulla summit, the sweeping views from Gorson’s Bugyal, the historic Kuari Pass along the ancient Silk Route, and of course, Baghini Glacier. Still, deep down, I couldn’t shake off the disappointment. This wasn’t the trek we had originally dreamed of, and that kept my spirits a bit low. But eventually, we set off, determined to make the best of it—low mood and all.
Finally, The Trek
We were a group of eight trekkers, joined by a guide, a cook, a helper, and three ponies. Though I started out feeling downcast, it was certainly better than sitting in a hotel room in Joshimath. And once that rucksack hits my back… well, it’s a whole different feeling!
Nanda Devi seen enroute Gorsons Bugyal
We’d barely begun when the weather struck again! Rain poured down, turning the trail slick and dangerous for the ponies. We had no choice but to stop and pitch our tents. And the moment we finished setting up camp—the rain stopped, the sky cleared, and bright sunshine flooded the mountains. Mother Nature was clearly having fun at our expense!
But soon, Gorson’s Bugyal worked its magic. As the clouds parted, the mighty Himalayan peaks appeared, glowing in full splendor. There wasn’t just one peak to admire—there were many. The proud silhouette of Nanda Devi, India’s highest peak entirely within its borders, stood tall. Dunagiri rose like a king’s crown, while Hathi Ghoda, Neelkanth, and the four summits of Chaukhamba revealed themselves, each more stunning than the last.
Alluring magic of Mother Nature
We found shelter beneath a tree, gazing out over Gorson Bugyal’s sweeping meadows. I couldn’t resist climbing onto a nearby rock for an even grander view. From up there, it felt like the whole world was laid out before me. I grinned like a child. It was perfect.
Night fell, and I drifted off into dreams. It felt like I was riding my bike at over 100 kph without a helmet! Suddenly, I woke in confusion—our tent was shaking wildly. When I peeked outside, it was snowing. Another day lost!
The guides and locals were stunned. They said it hadn’t snowed at this time of year in many, many years. News spread so quickly that people from the lower villages hiked up just to see us—because it was snowing in summer!
Meadow of Gorsons
Although the snow delayed our plans, Gorson Bugyal refused to let us feel defeated. When snow falls on an ordinary meadow, it’s beautiful. But when snow covers Gorson’s Bugyal, it transforms into a slice of heaven. I couldn’t stay inside—I grabbed my camera and stepped out into the white world. What we witnessed that day felt like a gift reserved only for the unlucky who get stuck in bad weather!
Everything was white and green. The gently rolling bugyal was blanketed in snow, dotted with trees, rocks, and our five colorful tents. It was a sight I may never see again. The mountains stayed hidden, peeking out only in shy glimpses through drifting clouds.
Snow changes the face of Gorsons Bugyal
Eventually, the weather cleared in the afternoon—but by then we’d already canceled the day’s trek. Instead, we made the most of it. We climbed toward the highest point visible from camp. It became a playful chase. Every time we reached a “high point,” there seemed to be another one further away! We kept climbing, one peak after another, until the mountains turned golden under the setting sun.
The panorama from Gorsons
Halfway down, my heart sank—I realized I’d dropped my mobile phone. I had to go back. It was expensive and nearly brand new! Darkness was falling quickly, but the snow turned out to be my friend. I followed my own footprints back up the slope, retracing the exact path I’d climbed earlier.
I nearly reached the top without spotting it. The sun had almost disappeared, and I knew I had just 15–20 minutes of light left. Heavy-hearted, I turned back, wondering how on earth one could give a missed call in a place with no network signal!
And then… I saw it. My phone lay there on the snow, sparkling in the last rays of daylight. I let out a cheer and felt pure childlike joy. It was one of those small moments that makes you believe life is wonderful again. I rushed back to join the group, grinning from ear to ear. Sadly, I’d missed the sunset—but it had been quite an adventure nonetheless.
Later, we wandered over to a shepherd’s tent a short distance away. After some serious bargaining—and sampling a few roasted pieces—we bought dried lamb meat. Life felt simple, rugged, and perfect.
Over the next two days, the skies remained clear, and we managed to complete the trek with splendid views. The descent to Tapovan was steep and tricky. At times, with heavy rucksacks on our backs, it felt nearly impossible to stop ourselves from sliding downhill.
But there was no time to rest. The same day, we were off again—setting out for our next adventure: the trek to Baghini Glacier. And we were excited, all set for another Himalayan story.
Tali Lake
Dunagiri hovers over
Shepherd's kingdom – Dunagiri and Nanda Devi in background
Campsite of Khullara
Nature forces you to go silent
I’ll share the details of the Baghini Glacier trek separately. Thanks for reading—it’s been wonderful and nostalgic to write this down!