Trek to Sandakphu – How Our Own Winter Fell
Day 1 – January 23, 2016 – From 114 meters
It all began with a wish—to trek through snowfall right here in our own Bengal. The night before, I barely slept. My husband and I were squeezed onto a single train berth, thanks to a last-minute booking that landed us only one confirmed ticket. A lesson learned: always book early for train journeys.
We arrived at New Jalpaiguri Station with aching necks but hearts brimming with excitement. From there, we caught a shared vehicle to Darjeeling.
Darjeeling welcomed us with cold winds and foggy mornings. We treated ourselves to breakfast at the legendary Keventers—a spread of hot chocolate, sausages, salami, and eggs. With Kangchenjunga hidden behind mist, we still felt ready for the adventure ahead.
Refreshed, we continued to Maneybhanjyang, our starting point. A local Sherpa greeted us warmly and guided us to a cozy homestay. As dusk fell, the cold grew fierce. We gathered around a bonfire, sharing stories and laughter with another group of trekkers from Kolkata. Under the 'wolf moon', we felt the promise of something extraordinary.
Day 2 – January 24, 2016 – From 2134 meters
Morning sunshine poured through the window, coaxing us out of bed. Our hosts, ever gracious, sent us off with smiles and hearty local food. Today, we would trek to Tonglu.
Our guide, John, gave us a short briefing before we started the steep climb through forests of pine and bamboo. Each opening in the trees revealed vast, silent hills that stole our breath.
We stopped at Chitre—a wide meadow fluttering with prayer flags—and then trekked through the mist to Meghma, a place true to its name: 'On the Clouds.' A small monastery peeked out of the fog. After a simple lunch, we pressed on to Tonglu.
Snow draped the landscape as the afternoon light began to fade. In the tea house, I tried Tongba, the local millet brew sipped through a bamboo straw—warm and surprisingly strong.
As darkness settled, I looked out the window. A glowing white tent seemed to float over the hills. Then, it rose—slowly, brilliantly—into the sky. It wasn’t a tent at all. It was the full moon climbing over the Himalayas. I sat in awe. What a gift to witness such a moonrise.
Day 3 – January 25, 2016 – From 3070 meters
Sleep was nearly impossible in the biting cold. When I finally unzipped my sleeping bag, I stepped outside to find Kangchenjunga glowing in the morning light—a view worth every frozen moment.
Today’s trail took us from Tonglu to Kalapokhri, passing through Singalila National Park. Along the way, we searched for shy red pandas, but none revealed themselves.
In Kaiyakatta, we stopped for lunch: steaming rice, fried eggs, and spicy vegetables that revived our tired bodies. The final stretch to Kalapokhri wound past a frozen black lake shimmering under the sky. By evening, we were huddled around the fireplace, trading stories as the cold crept back in.
Day 4 – January 26, 2016 – From 3186 meters
We woke before dawn, determined to reach Sandakphu, the highest point in Bengal. Fresh snow had blanketed the trail. Every step was like walking through a dream.
We passed locals singing and celebrating Republic Day, their voices echoing through the silent white hills. It felt surreal to be part of this living landscape.
As we climbed higher, the world turned completely white. Cold wind needled our skin, and I felt my city worries slipping away with every crunch of snow underfoot.
Finally, we reached Sandakphu. The temperature had fallen to minus 12. My cheeks stung with frost, but my heart was full.
That night, there was talk of sleeping in tents on the snow. But as a first-time winter trekker, I chose the safer comfort of the tea house—and was grateful for a sleeping bag and a roof overhead.
And yes, there was the unforgettable moment when my husband braved the cold to dig a 'cat-hole' in the snow—returning with a story that left me laughing till my sides hurt.
Day 5 – January 27, 2016 – From 3636 meters
The morning came colder than ever. Phalut was out of reach; the weather had turned and our guide wisely decided not to risk it. So we began our long descent to Sepi, through Gurdum and Srikhola.
Walking down felt even harder than climbing up. My knees ached, but the sight of trees dressed in snow made every step worthwhile.
Twigs and branches were adorned with little snow flowers, delicate and bright against the white world.
By the time we reached Sepi, darkness had swallowed the hills. I was so hungry I could have eaten a whole chicken—and, as if the mountains had read my thoughts, dinner was just that. Pure bliss.
We spent the next days in Jaigaon with our dear friend Suman, and even crossed into Bhutan for a taste of the Happy Kingdom. But as peaceful as the hills were, I soon realized—maybe we city folk do need a little noise after all.
And so, our trek came to an end. But the memories? They remain as vivid as the moonrise over Tonglu.
Travel Details
Planned Itinerary
- Day 1: Arrive in Maneybhanjyang
- Day 2: Trek from Maneybhanjyang to Tonglu
- Day 3: Trek from Tonglu to Kalapokhri
- Day 4: Trek from Kalapokhri to Sandakphu
- Day 5: Trek from Sandakphu to Phalut
- Day 6: Trek from Phalut to Gorkhey
- Day 7: Trek from Gorkhey to Bharyang and drive to NJP
Executed Itinerary
- Day 1: Arrive in Maneybhanjyang via Darjeeling
- Day 2: Trek to Tonglu
- Day 3: Trek to Kalapokhri
- Day 4: Trek to Sandakphu
- Day 5: Trek down to Sepi
- Day 6: Drive to Jaigaon and Phuentsholing, Bhutan
- Day 7: Explore Phuentsholing
- Day 8: Return to Kolkata
Planned and organized by Himalayan High. Learn more about the Sandakphu Phalut Trek.