Sandakphu Trek With Phalut

As explained above the reasons for doing the Sandakphu Phalut Trek, I think it makes an important point to raise awareness about a few things related to the Sandakphu Phalut Trek.

While there are many trek organisers doing the Sandakphu Trek, you will not find many of them doing the Sandaklphu Phalut trek. On the other hand, there are a few operators doing this trek in the reverse direction which is we believe is absolutely absurd and a waste of time and money ( detailed comparison in the next section below ). In short, all of these are nothing but business tactics. The difficulties of arranging the full trek safely, finding accommodation, managing longer walks safely with adequate local resources, etc are some of the major reasons why only a few trek agencies arrange The Sandakphu Phalut Trek in the right way with the best itinerary. Being a local trek operator, quite a few things get easier for us which our trekkers leverage upon.

If you are a trekker by heart, you will regret not doing the full Sandakphu Phalut Trek as a whole and return just by visiting Sandakphu, or not sleeping overnight in Phalut to witness the morning sunrise from there. While reaching Phalut is challenging in itself, staying in the remotest location of Phalut is a challenge too. Phalut is a very remote place with a very basic accommodation facility. However, what is a Himalayan trek if it does not offer challenges, solitude and minimalistic living conditions? As per our experience of arranging this trek since 2014, trekkers get ecstatic on reaching Phalut and it looks difficult only in the books. In practicality, it is the most beautiful destination on the trek route and with teamwork, reaching Phalut becomes easy as well.

Other things which the added Trek To Phalut offers are solitude, extravagant scenic beauty and ultimate closeness to the giant mountains with absolutely no human settlement around. Do read Why Phalut Is A Must-Do With Sandakphu Trek to understand more.

10 Reasons Why The Sandakphu Phalut Trek Is A Must Do For Any Trekker

1. The Sandakphu Trek offers a grand view of 4 of the Worlds highest 8000-meter peaks, namely  Mt. Everest, Mt. Kanchenjunga, Mt. Lhotse and Mt. Kanchenjunga. These 4 form the top 5 highest mountains in the World missing K2 which is the second-highest mountain and is in POK. Sandakphu Trek is one of the rarest treks which offer a view of such giant peaks all in a single frame.
2. Widespread Panorama of 26 peaks: Apart from the 4 highest peaks, the Sandakphu Trek offers a Panoramic view spanning over 220 degrees covering more than 26 beautiful and coveted peaks of Bhutan, Sikkim, and Nepal. It starts from Annapurna in the West and the view ends up in Narshing and Chomolhari as we spin our heads further east.
3. Sleeping Buddha From Sandakphu: The surreal view of Kanchenjunga and the Sleeping Buddha formation is unbelievable to your eyes and Mother Nature constantly tickles your imaginations with various other elements of it like clouds, the colour of the sky, the hues of sunrises and sunsets, etc. playing around it to help you to leave your world behind and walk into its dreamy world. It is formed by more than 17 peaks of the Kanchenjunga Family of mountains. Sleeping Buddha View Point from Sandakphu and Phalut is a unique speciality of this trek. no other trek offers the same in the entire Himalayas. You have to see it to believe it.
4. Wild Life Sighting: The trail towards Sandakphu and that to Phalut and return till Gorkhey is under the deep cover of bamboo forest along with tall coniferous trees which makes it an excellent home to various wild like including big cats. Leopard, Clouded Leopard, Takin, Wild Boar, Himalayan Black Bear, Barking Deer, Yellow-throated Martens, Pangolins and sometimes even Tigers venture into this forest. The tall bamboo forest is also home to the exotic Red Pandas which are found in the forest of China, Nepal and the North East only. Though sighting them is difficult but many trekking on this route have sighted them, especially on the trail between Tumling to Gairibas through the deep forest cover, and between Kaiyakata to Kalipokhari.
5. Excellent Opportunity For Bird Watching: The Singalila National Park is home to various species of birds and some of them are very rare and endangered. It's a paradise for bird watchers and photographers to capture some of the most colourful and beautiful birds of the Singalila National Park.
6. Exhilarating Views Of Sunrise and Sunsets Over The Mountains and Valleys From The Top: This trek is all about Sunrises and Sunsets. Sometimes in Sandakphu, the entire valley down below is covered by deep layers of clouds making you feel on top of those clouds. The hues of dusk over the white clouds take you to a different world. Sometimes, this same pool of clouds makes the Sleeping Buddha look like a Floating Buddha.
7. Peaceful Sight Of Kalipokhari - The Black Lake: Kalipokhari is a beautiful lake that falls on this trek route on the 2nd day of the trek. The name translates into 'black lake' and rightly so as the water of the lake appears black from the top when seen from a distance. The lake is a pious site for the locals and is marked by furling Buddhist prayer flags and a small Chorten (temple) beside it. The site of Kalipokhari is mostly foggy and mystic and is one of the most romantic destinations on this trek route.
8. Unique Cultural Exposure: This region is home to the Lepchas, Sherpas and Limboos and their hospitality will be cherished for a lifetime. There's a lot to learn from them and since we stay in local homestays, it makes a door for the exchange of knowledge, which ultimately shapes your travel experience and overall personality.
9. Experience India And Nepal On The Same Trek: This is a borderline trek between India and Nepal and it swings between India and Nepal multiple times. For 3 nights we stay in Nepal and for the other 3, we stay on the Indian side.
10. Beautiful Remote Villages, Homestays And Delicious Local Food: We come across many villages on this trek route namely Gairibas, Samanden, and Gorkhey. Each one of them is unique and beautiful. The ambience and peace around these villages are something you will take with you, and will always crave for it after you complete the trek to Sandakphu and Phalut

If you are short on the number of days, then we do shorter versions and other variations of the Sandakphu Phalut Trek as well. Do read below and contact us for more details.

Our Recommendation: We recommend that everyone, from Beginners to Experienced trekkers should do the Sandakphu Phalut Trek and follow the Classical route to do it as that's the best. However, for those who cannot spare 7 days for the Sandakphu Phalut Trek or for those who find reaching Phalut is difficult for them because of long-distance or feel that they cannot adjust to the very basic accommodation facilities in Phalut, or are low in budget, we have 2 other versions of this trek to choose from.  

The itinerary that we follow ( listed on this webpage) is the historical and classical route for the Sandakphu Phalut Trek. It is the same one which our seniors and ancestors followed to trek to this wonderland. It Starts from Maneybhanjyang and completes the trek in Sepi touching all the important viewpoints on the route like Chitre, Meghma, Tonglu, Kalipokhari, Bikeybhanjyang, Sandakphu, Sabargram, Phalut, Gorkhey, etc. 

While a few of the trek operators favour doing the Sandakphu Phalut Trek in the reverse order, that is starting from Sepi, doing Phalut first and then Sandakphu. This we believe is a terrible idea. It is mostly done for cost-saving measures rather than a better trek plan or experience. I explain the reasons below.

Before highlighting the differences, let me highlight the notable viewpoints on the Classical Route. It is for this reason that we still follow the classical route on our plan despite this route being an expensive one as compared to the reverse itinerary.

1. Maneybhanjyang: Maneybhanjyang is a border town which is one of the beautiful and peaceful valleys closer to Darjeeling - The Queen of Hill Station. The border here is just on the other side of the road. It is a good place to shop for trekking gear and some other stuff which you might need on the trek.
2. Chitre: The first viewpoint which comes after trekking for 3 kilometres on the first day. From here we get the first glimpse of the Mighty Kanchenjunga range and a beautiful birds-eye view of the city of Darjeeling. It also hosts a beautiful old Buddhist monastery right beside the Nepal border.
3. Meghma: A mystical place covered under clouds and mist over 90% of the time. It has beautiful monasteries and an SSB border checkpoint. The trekking trail from Lameydhura to Tumling is mostly covered under fog. That's why the name - Meghma, meaning Through the Clouds.
4. Tonglu/Tumling: This is the 2nd point on the trek which is at 3000 meters and offers a terrific view of the Sleeping Buddha. The morning view from this point is just breathtaking and heavenly. You have to witness it to believe it. On the classical route, this is just Day 2! Tonglu also helps in better acclimatization for the trek.
5. Kalipokhari: A beautiful and serene lake. The lake is further beautified by furling Buddhist prayer flags and a small Chorten ( Buddhist Stupa) in the backdrop. It is situated in Nepal and right beside the homestays. YOu should not miss this beautiful lake on this trek.
6. Bikeybhanjyang: Sandakphu is popular for aconite flowers. Bikeybhanjyang is a place which has it in abundance. Sandakphu itself means - 'the valley of poisonous plants ( aconites)'
7. Sandakphu: Sandakphu is the highest point of West Bengal and offers a grand view of the Sleeping Buddha and the Mount Everest group of Mountains. We keep our trekkers in Alley, which is 1.5 kilometres away from Sandakphu. It offers great views of the mountains and ignores the touristic and noisy crowd of Sandakphu.
8. Sabargram: Sabargram is a high point on the long route between Sandakphu and Phalut. It offers a terrific view of the Sleeping Buddha range. The campsite though is very very windy and uncomfortable as it is on a ridge top.
9. Phalut: Phalut is the most beautiful and remotest place on this trek route. It offers the closest view of the mountain ranges. The sunrise view from Phalut is just mind-blowing. You have to stay for a night here to experience the sunrise view from here.
10. Gorkhey: Gorkhey is a picture-perfect hamlet on this route near to Sikkim border. Here, it's a small stream which divides the Indian state of Sikkim and West Bengal.
11. Samanden: Samanden is to be seen to be believed. It's a wonderland right in the middle of the Jungle.

We believe that it's a complete waste of your money and time if you are reversing the itinerary and doing Phalut - Sandakphu Trek, that too without staying in Phalut. Here's why -

• You straightaway miss out on most of the beautiful viewpoints that I mentioned above, which fall on the classical route.
• Most importantly, when trekking the reverse itinerary, your will be walking away from the mountains showing your back towards the giant mountains and not facing toward the mountains. Beware - you might have neck pain turning back again and again to see the mountains. What a waste!
• You miss out on the number of times we give ourselves to view the Sleeping Buddha and the grand panorama of over 26 mountain peaks. On the classical route that we follow, we get atleast 6 times to enjoy the view, that is from Chitre, Tonglu, Sandakphu, Aalley, Sabargram and Phalut. If by any chance you are not able to see it for bad weather on one occasion, there are chances that you will not miss the view during the entire trek. On the reverse itinerary, you miss it big time.
• On the itinerary that we follow, we camp overnight in Phalut - one of the remotest and best points on this trek - the closest to the mountains ever on this route. The sunrise and sunset views from Phalut are mind-blowing. Only sleeping for the night in Phalut and rising up early morning to witness the sunrise can offer it. It is the best part of our itinerary. On the contrary, visiting Phalut just for the same of visiting it, in the daytime does not make any sense. The views are covered by clouds 90% of the time.
• Maneybhanjyang is a bigger town than Sepi. This allows you to do last-minute purchases in case you forget something. This also allows for making the trek safer in case something goes wrong. The travel time to Maneybhanjyan is just 3.5 hours from Bagdogra / Siliguri, which gives some flexibility on the first day of the trek. It saves cost as well as you can reach Maneybhanjyang in shared jeeps which cost only about 300 Rs. from Siliguri and 100 Rs. from Darjeeling.
• In case of bad weather which may hit anytime, the Classical route is much safer and can still be completed, while the reverse route cannot be completed and you will be wandering in lower villages itself hopping from one village to another.

Finally, there is a reason our ancestors and seniors followed this classical route which we follow as well. Keeping things simple, it's easier to hold your nose straight from the front, rather than to hold it from behind your neck and say you are doing things differently. It's good to walk facing towards the mountains and get closer to those with each passing day, rather than running away from it but still roaming around in the jungle for the sake of doing things differently. Choose Wisely!

It is a known fact that an offroading motorable road starts from Maneybhanjyang and goes to Phalut. While it is a matter of concern for all the trekkers wanting to experience silence and solitude on a trek, the fact is that the landrover route and trekking route are different and it only crisscrosses on a few sections of the trek. On the other hand, landrover make the trek safer, cheaper, convenient and easier. Let us analyze how it impacts our trek.

How Much Do The Trekking Route and Landrover Route Overlap?

The Sandakphu Trekking route is different from the Landrover route. Earlier it used to be only the trekking route but slowly as demands for connectivity increased, roads were built. These are not perfectly finished metal roads as it falls within the National Park area. Only local landrover from the association are allowed to take tourists from Maneybhanjyang on this route. Private cars and taxis are not allowed. The Sandakphu Phalut Trekking route goes via the Jungle on its major portions. However, it crisscrosses the landrover road each at some sections for a small portion of the entire route which may account for about 15% of the trail. It must be noted that not many landrover go till Phalut. Most of them go to Sandakphu only

What Do We Do To Minimize The Impact?

1. We schedule our treks to start on non-popular dates that see less traffic of tourists. 
2. We recommend starting the trek 1 or 2 days away from popular holidays.
3. Our fixed departure trek starts on Sunday instead of Saturday which is a popular date for tourists coming from Kolkata and nearby
4. We stay in Tumling and not Tonglu as Tonglu sees more tourist traffic being cheaper
5. We stay about 1.5 km away from Sandakphu and stay in Aalley to avoid a touristic crowd and offer a much better location for mountain viewing.

Positive Impact Of Landrover Route?

Landrover does sound like a problem when you are sitting in your home and office and analysing the route. However, in actuality, it does not impact anything in that vast and longer route. It rather helps make the trek route much safer to answer quick emergency evacuation, and rescue missions in case anyone is physically injured or sick. At the same time, landrover also makes the homestays cheaper as they ferry regular supplies to the homestays.

Off Season ( May end till September end):

Sandakphu Phalut Trek lies in the Singalila National Park in the Eastern Himalayas. Being in closer proximity to the Bay Of Bengal, this region gets early and prolonged monsoons. It starts to rain consistently from the end of May and continues till the end of September. During this time, it is not considered the best time to do this trek. Also, the National Park remains closed during this time restricting trekkers to do this trek. The homestay owners also take a break during this time. 

Autumn Season and Distant Panoramic Views (October till December mid):

This is considered one of the best times to do this trek and is personally my favourite. By the end of September monsoon tends to end and offers clearer and stable weather. Sometimes the monsoon may be prolonged and take up a day or 2 of October as well. By the mid of October, the weather becomes close to perfect, November till the mid of December being one the best bet for stable weather offering the best view of the mountain panorama for which this trek is famous. 

Winter Season and Snowfall In Sandakphu Phalut Trek ( December end till February):

It typically snows here during the year-end, making it a great way to celebrate Christmas and New Year. The snowfall here, unlike Uttrakhand and Himachal, is not huge making it a pleasant, yet adventurous venture. During these 2.5 months, it snows about 5 to 6 times and makes it a trekking wonderland. The best part is during this time landrover do not ply and their movement is restricted till Tumling itself. The temperatures during this time go as low as -8 degrees Celcius in Sandakphu and Phalut due to the wind chill factor.

Spring Season and Rhododendrons ( Mar, April till May mid):

The Spring season is again considered one of the best times to do this trek. It spans upto 2.5 months from March to the mid of May. Many colourful wildflowers, rhododendrons and magnolias bloom during this time after the snow recedes and the earth starts to get comfortably warm. Trekking during this time feels fantastic!

The Sandakphu Phalut trek is a dream come true for foreign trekkers, offering a unique blend of grand Himalayan beauty and cultural immersion. This trek stands out as an exquisite adventure that captivates the hearts of international visitors.

New regulations have altered the way international trekkers experience the Sandakphu Phalut trek. Unlike in the past when there used to be no discrimination between Foreigners and Indians and they could sleep in the Nepal Guest Houses as well as Indian homestays. However, post Covid19 pandemic, the Nepal Govt changed the rules and due to these changes, foreigners holding valid Indian visas can no longer spend the night in Nepal during the trek. As a result, all overnight stays must now be within the Indian border. This necessitates a private trek with a customized itinerary to ensure compliance with the new rules. This alteration allows international guests to continue exploring the trek while maintaining their legal status.

While the changes primarily pertain to overnight stays for international trekkers, all other rules and guidelines remain consistent for both Indian and foreign visitors. It's crucial for all trekkers to be aware of national park fees and local resource fees, which may be higher for international guests. Trekkers of all nationalities must follow these guidelines to protect the natural beauty of the region and support the local communities that make this trek a memorable experience.