To The Himalayas – Unguided Solo Travel
The Background
It was August 2013, just a couple of months after devastating floods ravaged Uttarakhand. My body had healed from a tibia fracture, but my spirit felt trapped. I’d quit my job and was restless beyond words. I needed the mountains. I needed the Himalayas—at any cost.
The news was flooded too—images of destruction and grief. Having traveled many times before in Uttarakhand, I’d developed a soft corner for its people. Seeing the flood victims broke my heart. But I was neither financially capable of helping nor skilled at consoling. I feared my words might stir up more sorrow instead of comfort. All I could do was feel the heaviness in my chest.
So I decided to visit the state… alone.
After quitting my job, I’d earned a small sum developing websites for a local school and a business. That modest amount was all I could afford for this journey. I couldn’t even tell my parents the truth about where I was headed. They would have emotionally locked me up if they knew I planned to wander alone into flood-ravaged Uttarakhand!
A Great-Looking Plan
I hatched a plan, researched trekking routes and remote villages, and compiled a small booklet of resources for myself. Then, bit by bit, I packed my rucksack and camera and booked my ticket to New Delhi.
It took several days to carefully create the right “atmosphere” at home for my impending journey. I leaked small hints about my trip over a week, never mentioning that I was heading to the “currently troubled” Uttarakhand—and certainly not alone. That secret would stay hidden until I returned safely home.
Finally, with a pinch of sadness, I left. Me, a few clothes, a tent, sleeping bag, and my camera. I carried few clothes and no mattress, but took my mom’s shawl. Its homely smell comforted me.
I headed straight for Joshimath from Delhi, but it wasn’t the simple journey it used to be. When I reached Haridwar, I understood the grim ground reality in Uttarakhand. Simple travel wasn’t even possible. Outsiders were scarce. I was the odd man out. Many assumed I was a journalist because of my camera. I had to switch four jeeps and answer countless questions about why I was there before I finally reached Joshimath.
My Grand Plan
My ambitious plans were:
- Visit the Rongpa villages of Niti, Malari, Ghamshali, and Bampa
- Trek to Nandikund from Dronagiri village
- Reach Badrinath and Mana
- Trek to Satopanth Taal
- Return and travel to Ukhimath
- Trek to Nandikund
- Head down to Uttarkashi
- Trek to Gangotri
- Return to Uttarkashi to join NIM for the Basic Mountaineering Course
- Finally, come home after completing the BMC
By my calculations, this could keep me wandering the mountains for three months. Little did I know how different reality on the ground would be compared to the beautiful plan I’d crafted while sitting comfortably at home, browsing the internet!
After reaching Joshimath, my well-laid plans hung under a big question mark…
But eventually, my solo, unguided journey carved its own path—and I simply flowed with it.
The Journey Continues
My travels unfolded across several chapters, each documented in the blogs listed below:
- Niti Malari – Where People Are Gods
- Heavy Rains, Dark Night, A Stone Cave, and Me
- Loitering in Badrinath | Sadhus, Cannabis, Free Meal, Free Stay
- That's How I Got Leh'd
- Stok Kangri – An Unplanned Climb
- Riding The Nubra Valley
- Travelling Solo, An Insight