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To The Himalayas – Unguided Solo Travel

The Background

It was August 2013, just a couple of months after devastating floods ravaged Uttarakhand. My body had healed from a tibia fracture, but my spirit felt trapped. I’d quit my job and was restless beyond words. I needed the mountains. I needed the Himalayas—at any cost.

The news was flooded too—images of destruction and grief. Having traveled many times before in Uttarakhand, I’d developed a soft corner for its people. Seeing the flood victims broke my heart. But I was neither financially capable of helping nor skilled at consoling. I feared my words might stir up more sorrow instead of comfort. All I could do was feel the heaviness in my chest.

So I decided to visit the state… alone.

After quitting my job, I’d earned a small sum developing websites for a local school and a business. That modest amount was all I could afford for this journey. I couldn’t even tell my parents the truth about where I was headed. They would have emotionally locked me up if they knew I planned to wander alone into flood-ravaged Uttarakhand!

A Great-Looking Plan

I hatched a plan, researched trekking routes and remote villages, and compiled a small booklet of resources for myself. Then, bit by bit, I packed my rucksack and camera and booked my ticket to New Delhi.

It took several days to carefully create the right “atmosphere” at home for my impending journey. I leaked small hints about my trip over a week, never mentioning that I was heading to the “currently troubled” Uttarakhand—and certainly not alone. That secret would stay hidden until I returned safely home.

Finally, with a pinch of sadness, I left. Me, a few clothes, a tent, sleeping bag, and my camera. I carried few clothes and no mattress, but took my mom’s shawl. Its homely smell comforted me.

I headed straight for Joshimath from Delhi, but it wasn’t the simple journey it used to be. When I reached Haridwar, I understood the grim ground reality in Uttarakhand. Simple travel wasn’t even possible. Outsiders were scarce. I was the odd man out. Many assumed I was a journalist because of my camera. I had to switch four jeeps and answer countless questions about why I was there before I finally reached Joshimath.

My Grand Plan

My ambitious plans were:

  1. Visit the Rongpa villages of Niti, Malari, Ghamshali, and Bampa
  2. Trek to Nandikund from Dronagiri village
  3. Reach Badrinath and Mana
  4. Trek to Satopanth Taal
  5. Return and travel to Ukhimath
  6. Trek to Nandikund
  7. Head down to Uttarkashi
  8. Trek to Gangotri
  9. Return to Uttarkashi to join NIM for the Basic Mountaineering Course
  10. Finally, come home after completing the BMC

By my calculations, this could keep me wandering the mountains for three months. Little did I know how different reality on the ground would be compared to the beautiful plan I’d crafted while sitting comfortably at home, browsing the internet!

After reaching Joshimath, my well-laid plans hung under a big question mark…

But eventually, my solo, unguided journey carved its own path—and I simply flowed with it.

The Journey Continues

My travels unfolded across several chapters, each documented in the blogs listed below:

  1. Niti Malari – Where People Are Gods
  2. Heavy Rains, Dark Night, A Stone Cave, and Me
  3. Loitering in Badrinath | Sadhus, Cannabis, Free Meal, Free Stay
  4. That's How I Got Leh'd
  5. Stok Kangri – An Unplanned Climb
  6. Riding The Nubra Valley
  7. Travelling Solo, An Insight
View User Profile for Suman

Every day I keep learning new things, but as of now, I think I can describe myself as a Loyal Himalayan Lover, Avid Trekker, Student Of Mountaineering, Amateur Photographer and an Enthusiastic Anthropologist. I am a Computer Science Engineer by education and previously worked as a Software Developer for premium IT companies. However, I quit the luxury of a high-earning corporate job and left behind the herd to walk towards the spiritual path laid down by the Godly Himalayas. At the age of 27 with no savings at all and being the only son from a lower-middle-class family, it was too young to fight against the family who in turn had to fight against the rules laid down by society. However, with my determination and perseverance, everything became smooth by passing time.

It wasn't easy for me as I learnt the hard way from mistakes - my own and by observing others. I fought 2 major road accidents that broke my right tibia and femur. I underwent 7 surgeries that kept me away from the mountains, but I patiently fought them all to get back to trekking again in the Himalayas with rods and plates in my bones. Despite doctors saying I cannot walk properly ever again to getting back to trekking on the difficult routes again, Life made me understand very clearly what it wants out of me in this World. It wants me to serve the Himalayas and its community, live a peaceful, content and simple life. That's what I have dedicated my this life to. I am not religious, but spiritual. The Himalayas define my road.

The Himalayas today is spammed by mushrooming trek agencies and big companies who take pride in being India's Largest, biggest, oldest, etc. They are exploiting everything for the sake of profit. It is in dire need of regulation by credible Government authorities, Sustainable Tourism Practices needs to be forced upon every organisation, Small Group Sizes needs to be mandated, Fixed camping should be restricted in alpine zones and Negative Ecological Impact Trekking Protocols should be laid down immediately by governing bodies. With all these objectives, I founded Himalayan High in the year 2015. Learn more about Himalayan High on About Himalayan High

Posted by Suman Chowdhury Thursday, October 1, 2015 8:11:00 PM Categories:
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