The Kang Yatse Massif is a beautiful looking peak that dominates the entire Markha Valley. It is the highest peak of the valley and has a very high prominence. However, its the beauty of this peak that attracts climbers to it. Its a massif of 4 peaks which are above 6000 meters, but its the second and first peak that are climbed the most.
While the second peak is a trekking peak, Kang Yatse 1 is a categorized as a technical peak and the summit climb involves some good ice and snow climbing skills. The route is very steep and demands excellent physical stamina and powerful thigh muscles to walk through the soft snow. The usual route we take to the summit camp of this peak is via the scree zone climbing up straight from below the mountain. There is an alternate route following the glacier, however thats long and has a crevasse below the dome.
There is an unclimbed ( no sources or record found ) route from the summit of Kang Yatse 2 to the summit of Kang Yatse 1 via the rocky knife edge ridge which looks very challenging.
The summit climb to Kang Yatse 1 starts from its Camp 1 before the dawn at around 2 AM. Straight away you are on a steep snow slope of gradient over 65 degrees, and will walk roped-up to each other. Depending on the snow condition, rope may be fixed on the previous night or after covering some distance in the morning. The climb to the summit involves negotiating a broken ridge with good exposure and drop on both the sides after which it's a steep climb on hard ice/ soft snow cover the last 500 meters to the summit of the dome. Hard ice make it easy rather than soft snow. While early June/ July has good amount of snow cover, comparatively, it is much easier to achieve success on this peak during August/ September.
The views starts to open up as you approach Camp 1 and the ranges of East Karakoram are visible towards your back. It's very important to have a focused head to achieve a success on this summit. It will be an enriching experience as an aspiring mountaineer to take up other difficult peaks in the future.
Important Information For International Guests:
We require to get climbing permits from Indian Mountaineering Foundation for this peak and support with a liason officer. While we can arrange everything for you being affiliates of IMF, the permit clearance process takes time and its good if you give us time for that. While getting permits in short notice is possible as well, but not always guaranteed. So to be safe, its better you connect with us 6 months in advance. Permit fees can range between 500 to 800 USD for the entire team.
Alternate Itinerary, without Markha Valley (10 Days, Leh to Leh )
- Day 1: Arrive in Leh.
- Day 2: Acclimatization Day in Leh. Local sightseeing.
- Day 3: Drive from Leh to Shang Sumdo, Trek to Chuskirmo ( 4140m, 3 hours ).
- Day 4: Trek to Lartsa ( 4600m, 4 hrs )
- Day 5: Cross Kongmaru La ( 5130m ) to Nimaling ( 4895m, 4 hrs )
- Day 6: Acclimatization Day. Trek to Base Camp by Evening ( 5000m, 2 hr )
- Day 7: Approach to Camp 1
- Day 8: Summit Day. Back to Base Camp
- Day 9: Reserved Day
- Day 10: Trek From Base Camp to Leh, via Chuskirmo
Do not forget to check the Trek Album on our Photo Gallery Page
Want Us To Help you Arrange For This Epic Journey ?
We believe that a smaller group gives you the best of the Himalayan Experience and specialize in organizing customized groups for the Climb Kang Yatse 1 Peak. Do get in touch with us if you want us to arrange this trek for you.
You can use the link - Customized Plan For Climb Kang Yatse 1 Peak to drop us an email with your specific requirements and service required. We will get back to you with the detailed plan and quotation as per the group size and service requested.
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